Replacing the webbing strap that lifts the keel

• some observations from owners that have done it

Firstly, some observations from Andy Long

A lot will depend on the particular arrangement in the boat, as there have been a number of mods over the years. My boat was one of the first built and did not even have a locking pin to hold the keel up or down - hence the problem occurred to me - that to change the strop when afloat would be impossible. I have done a number of mods to overcome this.

First, I made a pin arrangement to support the keel in the "up" position, so that I can let the tension off the strop. Then, in order to get the strop bolt out of the aft roller bracket on the keel, I made a 1" hole through the keel inner and outer casings (fibreglass and plywood) on the port side. This hole lines up with the strop bolt (when the keel is right up) and is big enough for a 13mm socket. On the starboard side, there was already a 4" hole in the fibreglass keel casing, aft. So, with the outer plywood panel removed, no mod was required on this side.

With the boat ashore, of course, the pin is not needed, as the keel can be blocked at a convenient height, so that it may be possible to remove the strop bolt via the 4" hole on the starboard side without needing access from the port side. However for this to be possible, the nut will have to be on the port side! It should be possible to reach the nut with a spanner via the second (larger) access hole in the keel case starboard side with the keel lowered slightly. Again, individual boats will vary as to the size and position of these access holes.

The second, 6" diameter hole, is provided to access the nylon bosses at top of the keel. These are the round nylon bosses which act as "stops" to prevent the keel lowering right out of the boat. They are attached by a length of studding (which is screwed through a threaded hole in the keel) and nuts on either side. I could not really see the point in using studding and have replaced it with a plain (and stronger) stainless bolt, after drilling out the threaded hole in the keel. I put the nut on the port side. Now, when I have to take the keel out, I can remove both bosses from the starboard side.

On my boat, there is also an access hole on the port side for the port boss, though removal of the boss required the port plywood panel and galley to be dismantled and removed first!

Fraser Monaghan writes...

I bought my J21 at the end of last year, it had been laid up and neglected for 5 years so and required a bit of maintenance and TLC. Having read an article in "Sailing Today" (Sept 2000), of a J21 whose keel suddenly parted company with the boat to the depths below, it raised my concerns as to the condition of the strap.

I removed the wooden panels around the keel case, at the top of the keel box, are, on each side, 2 circular holes of about 4 inch dia. The middle ones - about half way along exposed 2 large nylon washers about 1.5 inch dia & .5 inch dia thick, on each side and bolted through. I did not try to remove them, I think their purpose is to provide lateral support as the keel slides down the casing.

The aft circular holes allow inspection of the webbing eye, secured to the aft end, mild steel channel plate bracket by a rod which appears to have a slotted end (or slotted both ends?). Like yourself, screwdrivers and impact driver would not move it, eventually after much sweating & swearing, having burned out several drill bits, the rod was weakened sufficiently and driven out.

A new rod was made up from 10mm dia, stainless steel bar, threaded at one end and slotted at the other to take a screwdriver. The threaded end is well greased and bound in PTFE tape to ensure it won't rust. I intend to inspect it on a regular basis.

A new strap was made up by Lifting & Crane Services, Unit 2, Subrook Trading estate, Llanthony Road, Gloucester, GL2 5QZ. (Tel 01452 504266) with a sewn loop at the end & certificate to 2T!! This firm provided an excellent service & charged £5 Inc P&P. Excellent value I think. The boat was on a trailer, using the winch it was now possible to drop and raise the keel 18 inches or so.

I removed a GRP panel on the hog and a very old brittle rubber seal, the purpose of which would be to act as a baffle and restrict mud etc from getting into the keelbox and to stop wave splash inside the keelbox. With this removed, limited inspection of the keelbox was possible from under the boat. From inside the boat, through the cut holes, using a small mirror it was just about possible to view the keel operation from the top.

With the boat now in the water it is possible to lower & raise the keel and this operation appears to be satisfactory, but fairly heavy work on the winch is required. I have marked the winch strap to show when to stop lowering and then insert the retaining pin.

Mike Senior, Jaguar 21 sail no.84

(Peterborough, sailing mainly from King's Lynn)

The problem I encountered when changing the strap was that the bolt to which it is attached was rusted in solid. As far as I could see there was not enough clearance to sew a new strap in situ, though one end was plain with no loop. On my boat there was a small access hole on one side (starboard | think) but the screw head was on the port side. There might be screwdriver slots on both ends.

After breaking screw drivers including impact driver blades I drilled the screw out from the rear but because the screw was stainless in a mild steel channel (I think) the drill wandered and damaged the channel threads. I did get it all back together with a new screw and filler on the damaged thread but really wanted to replace the channel. I could probably cut out a bigger access hole but that might weaken the keel box so the only way seems to be to remove the keel.

I think the keel can be removed through the bottom if the plastic stops are first removed. As far as I remember there are three of these though I'm not sure how accessible they are except that I thought | could remove them. To lower it fully you need clearance below, which I don't have on my trailer so I considered digging a hole and/or jacking up the trailer. Alternatively it might be possible to hoist the boat if the right equipment was available. The other problem would be getting it back in again in such a restricted space and I thought of making a support frame to hold it just before it came out.

Jim Hamilton (Sandy Patch, now at Bucklers Hard) writes......

For interest I have these two photos of my keel being re-furbished by JK Marine (at Dell Quay). They manufactured hwn now slider hoxes which can be coon with one of the old ones which had rusted up Farly ( ed since. JK Marine did a